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Cash-King Port

The Cash King Portfolio has been renamed the Rule Maker Portfolio.

Companies Messages

11 Steps:
 1: Philosophy
 2: Mastering Finances
 3: Allocating Savings
 4: Finding Ideas
 5: Getting Information
 6: Cash-King Criteria
 7: QuaVa & Flow
 8: Ownership
 9: Putting It Together
10: Retirement
11: Getting Answers

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• Hall of Portfolios
• Rule Breaker Port
• Rule Maker Port
• Boring Port
• Drip Port
• Foolish Four Port
• Harry Jones

Wednesday, February 11, 1998

Cash-King Portfolio Report
by Phil Weiss (pweiss@homemail.com)

TOWACO, NJ (Feb. 11, 1998) -- Today I thought I'd take some time responding to some of the questions that have been sent to my personal mailbox about Step 2 -- Mastering Finances, and Step 3 -- Allocating Savings, which I worked on.

One Fool asked: "How can I determine the security of transacting through one of these "deep discount" brokerages that advertise on the Internet at rates of $7 or $10 per transaction? I currently use Schwab due to my concern about possible fly-by-night brokerage operations over the Internet."

Well the first thing to do is make sure that the broker is registered with one or more known federal agencies: the National Association of Securities Dealers (NASD), the Discount Brokers Association (DBA) or the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC). You also want to make sure that securities held for you by the broker are insured. For example, a discount broker that I use is registered with all three of the agencies that I named. My account is also protected for up to $500,000 (limited to $100,000 for cash claims) by the Securities Investor Protection Corporation (SIPC), and an independent firm provides additional protection of $10,000,000 (limited to securities protection).

For more information on this topic you should definitely check out the Discount Broker Message Board, where hundreds of Fools have shared their thoughts and experiences in weeks past. Meantime, the Fool's Discount Brokerage Center on the Web is a great source for general broker information. Using a deep-discount broker can significantly reduce your commission costs, enabling many to keep fees within our portfolio's target range of 0-2% of your total investment. But, each of these brokers varies in their manner of customer service, their costs for additional services, and their trading infrastructure. Check out that folder -- we think you'll learn much from it.

The same Fool felt compelled to ask a second question! He wrote: "If my investment horizon is short -- say 2 years -- is it ever advisable to use long-term call and put options to hedge against short-term volatility in the stock market?"

My take (and it's certainly open for discussion in the Cash-King folder) is that no, you shouldn't. I can't say never, but the general rule that we like to follow is that money should only be invested in the market when your time horizon is five years or more. For Cash-Kings, we've extended the holding period to 10 years, not because we consider it a risky approach, no. Only because we believe that, through the blessings of compounded growth, the greatest investment rewards come further and further down the road.

Personally, I only like committing long-term money to the market because it substantially decreases the chance that I'll be forced to sell a stock to meet short-term cash needs. As far as options themselves go, due primarily to the high level of volatility and risk, these are generally not investment vehicles used by long-term investors. We don't like to introduce time as a major factor in our investment approach, and that's exactly what options have you focused on. In the end, we'd rather invest $1,200 for the next twenty years than $5,000 for the next two months.

Our third question today came from a different Fool, who asked about paying off/reducing credit-card debt. As discussed throughout Fooldom, getting your personal finances in order before investing in stocks is critical. You really do want a rock-solid foundation before you start. Ahh, but this question is much more complex. This particular Fool has already purchased some stocks and was wondering whether or not they should be sold to eliminate existing credit-card debt.

This isn't a simple question to answer. It depends at least partially upon the transaction fees related to selling the stock. If the sales don't result in significant capital gains or commissions, then it would probably be best to cash out, pay off the credit cards, resolve not to incur any new balances, and start saving for your next stock purchase. At average interest rates of 14-18%, credit cards cost more than the market typically rewards investors (with the pre-tax historical growth rate of 11% per year from U.S. common stocks). The banks in America simply cannot stop laughing loudly enough at how much debt their customers are willing to carry over from one month to the next at double-digit interest rates. Don't give them cause to laugh at you, too, Fool.

Now, if your transaction and tax costs are too significant, we can see holding onto your investments and using your new savings to pay off your debts. In this context, "significant" means that the transaction costs will be greater than the anticipated interest costs that would be incurred by paying the debts off over time. Hey, you're going to have to do a little math yourself.

The last question to be discussed today relates to what exactly we mean when we say in Step 2 of the 11 Steps to Cash-King Investing: "...Set aside and save a portion of each of your paychecks. For most Fools, this should be around 10 percent of your annual income...." The questions about this line ranged from whether we refer here to pre-tax income (gross income) or after-tax income (net income) and whether all types of savings (401(k), college, etc.) should be included in the 10%.

For us, the 10% refers to gross income, but the real key is to set up some type of regular savings plan and to gradually increase in percentage terms the amount that you set aside. If you can't handle 10% when you start your regular savings plan, that's okay. Just determine how much you can manage to put away and save that. If you can comfortably save more, by all means do.

As for the second part of the question, I'd consider college savings to be separate from the rest of your savings. The 401(k) could be included but, personally, I exclude it from how much I'm putting away. Why exclude 401(k) savings? Because it represents money that I don't plan to use or access until after I retire. The other savings I put away, I may very well use before retirement. Personally, I love building that portion of my savings account; it's money I can expect to use before I'm old and gray and sitting by the fire.

So let's restate our Qs and As:

1. Deep discount brokers? Drop by our message folders.

2. Options for hedging short-term investments? Not our style.

3. Sell stocks to pay down credit bills? Probably, but run the numbers.

4. 10% savings out of retirement funds? Yes, we think so.

We'll see you all tomorrow with more talk of our companies. Until then, don't forget that doctors recommend 8 1/4 hours of sleep a night. If you're like most Americans, you're working too hard. Get some rest!

Phil Weiss (pweiss@homemail.com)

Stock  Change    Bid 
 MSFT  -  5/16  158.88 
 PFE   -  5/16  83.69 
 TROW  +  3/8   68.13 

                   Day   Month    Year  History 
         C-K      -0.00%   0.40%   0.40%   0.40%